The Beauty and the Burden of the Small-Lock Journey (16 Years In)
By Tunisia Ali – I AM MELANIN MAGIC
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Today, I’m sharing the beauty and the burden of the small-lock journey—relevant if you wear small locks, Microlocks, or Sisterlocks. Sixteen years in (as of July), I’d do it all over again. I’ve been seasoned by this path: from getting retightenings done by locticians to maintaining my own hair, through pattern changes, countless color sessions, trims, and everything in between.
Cost: Startup vs. Lifetime Value
Prices are soaring in many markets. I’ve heard installs at $2,500 and as high as $4,000 for Microlocks and Sisterlocks (length, region, and stylist matter). Be selective—and remember: the long-term benefits outweigh the short-term install cost. If maintenance strains your budget, consider DIY, or train someone to help maintain your hair exactly as you prefer.
Ease (With Responsibility)
Locks usher in an era of ease and carefreeness—no umbrella panic, no “what will I do with my hair?” But it’s not a “do nothing” style. I will never regret making this choice for my hair for so many reasons. I do however refer to this as an at-risk hairstyle because of level of ritual maintenance, and the frequency and quality issues associated with retightenings that can damage hair. This is why it is important to make sure that your relationship with your loctician is a collaborative one. It is as important to ensure that the kind of loctician you have considers the preeminence of hair health and consistently balances this with tension concerns and other issues that will damage hair long term. Create a system and inspect what you expect so your hair thrives long-term. Be sure that your time with your loctician includes less chatting and social time and more time spent discussing changes in your hair, and the overall state of your loc journey.
The Inner Journey
Expect growth beyond the mirror. This path deepens self-care, patience, self-acceptance, and authenticity. It’s beautiful—and sometimes challenging—because who you’re becoming shows up in your hair, and what your hair goes through affects you. The loc journey will certainly enrich your relationship with yourself and require you to look inside as much as you look in the mirror.
Maintenance: Day-to-Day to Retightening
Day-to-day grooming is simple. Retightening/relocking must happen at regular intervals based on your method (tool or hand). I’ve been hand-maintaining many of my locks, feeding the bottom through the root at two points, and pivoting away from knots to lessen stress as I correct earlier mistakes. If you rely on a stylist, the travel, cost, and fit with their technique matters—make sure your hair likes the method and frequency, and be willing to pivot. If at any time your regular review of hair reveals that your hair is not thriving or is breaking or thinning, be ready to change your direction and/or methods.
Comparison & Hair Envy
You’ll get reactions—including envy (not only about looks, but your courage to stand out). This is part of the journey. Some people will project insecurities, and that is ok. It’s about them, not you. Be mindful as well of your own tendency to feel inadequate in some way as you look at another person’s hair. Avoid comparing your hair to anyone else’s journey. Early on I wanted thinner, more uniform locks and spent time unraveling and relocking. My texture, pattern, and coil had their own path. I had to reclaim my definition of beauty and learn to be comfortable with how my hair was expressing itself. You hair has its own energetic imprint and it is what make you unique. Claim it.
My Bottom Line
This has been one of my best life decisions. If I ever left small locks, I’d likely try traditional locks. Locks carry our experiences; sometimes we crave a fresh start. For now, I love this cocoon I’ve been in for years.
FAQ
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Costs vary by market, length, and stylist. I’ve heard $2,500 to $4,000. Be selective and weigh lifetime value against upfront cost. Either way, I think it’s worth it long term.
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Consider DIY maintenance or training someone to help maintain your hair to your standards.
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It brings ease, but I still consider it an at-risk hairstyle—have a system, inspect what you expect, and keep regular retightening.
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At regular intervals that suit your hair and chosen method. Make sure your hair likes the frequency—and pivot if it doesn’t. I strongly warn against regular retightenings before 6 weeks. My preference, for my hair type is 10 to 12 weeks. Many are uncomfortable with this rotation.
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Filter others’ projections and refuse to compare your journey. Reclaim your definition of beauty. Take and celebrate the milestones you reach as you embrace more of your amazing journey. Get the Loc Journal: Chronicles of Hair Growth and Personal Evolution. This will elevate your entire journey and allow you to embrace all phases while journeying about your internal transformation.
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